服装专业用语.doc

TECHNICAL TERMS DICTIONARY 工艺术语Fit TermDefinition 解释Exampe（s）举例Align 对齐Position specific points or pieces along a reference lineButtons align along CF，pockets align along horizontal and vertical grain lines 水平和垂直的谷物线Angle，Angled 有角度的Not straight horizontally or vertically. Same as slanted斜的Any part of garment or patternApex 顶点、尖端Fullest part of chest/bust胸部.Point to point refers to distance between middle of cupsAsymmetrical,esmtrkl不均匀的、非对称的Uneven from side to sideAny part of garment or patternBackward 向后的Toward the back 朝后面Any aprt of garment or patternBalance,Balnced平衡、匀称Describes how garment hangs on body.Hem should be parallel to floor.脚口应该平行于地板Side seams and placket should be perpendicular ,pp()ndkjl 详细n. 垂线；垂直的位置adj. 垂直的，正交的；直立的；陡峭的 to floor.Body is centered inside garment.Refers to pattern or garmentBaste,Basting,Basted 假缝Sew with long,loose stitches to temporarily hold in place 临时存在的缝Pockets,ventsBlas grainYarns线 at angle角 to warp弯曲 or weft纬线.True bias is at 45 degreesBlendRe-draw pattern line to achieve smooth shape.Same as taperAny part of patternBlockBasic pattern used as starting point when developing a new styleBowedDistortion or curving of garment seam or lineSleeves,shoulder,hip area,leg shapeBox pleatsPleats are folded to inside of garmentRefer to sketch,also see PleatsBubbles,BubblingAppearance of fusible interlining when applied incorrectlyPefer to photoCasingSpace between two rows of stitching where elastic,cord or other part is inserted. Same as TunnelWaistband,leg/sleeve opening,necklineChevronPattern alignment forms V or inverted V at seam.Pattern is mirroredClean finsh卷边Raw edge of fabric is not visibleHems,trim pieces,facings,neck dege,armhole degeClip,ClippingCut down to appropriate length.Same as TrimmingThread ends,seam allowanceCollapse,CollapsingFabric is falling into the bodyTOP of placket,back panel,inseam/outseamCrockingColor is transferred during washing or rubbingCrookedUneven,not straight or symmetricalAnywhere on garmentCross grainYarns aligned to weft or fill direction perpendicular to selvage edge.Same as Weft grain and Horizontal grainAlso see GrainCrotch hookCurved area of front or back rise near inseamBottoms onlyCrotch pointPoint where rise and inseam intersectBottoms onlyCrotch shelfStraight area of front or back rise between inseam and curveBottoms onlyCrushedCreased and wrinkled due to improper finshing and/or packingAny part of garmentCuts in,Cutting inFabric is too close or toutching body.Pattern piece needs to be scooped outArmhole,riseDips,DippingSeam position is too low at cenrter point.Same as DroppingUsually refers toCF/CB wasitline or hem shapeDistortedGrament is twisted out of its originla shapeDrag lineFold line on the body created by too much or too little fabric.Lines point to problem areas.Same as Pull lineAnywhere on garmentDrops,DroppingSeam position is too low at certer point.Same as DippingUsually refers toCF/CB wasitline or hem shapeEase(garment)Difference in measurements between form/body and garment,also referred to as Ease over body,Wearing ease,Garment easeAny part of garmentEase(pattern)Difference in measurements between two pattern pieces that will be stitched together to form a seam,referred to as Pattern easeUsually refers to slv cap,womens bust seams or wasitEncasedFully covered by casing or stitching充分的套管或缝合.Same as Tunneled,EnclosedRaw edge enclosed within coverstitch,elastic encased within waisttbandEnclosedFully covered by casing or stitching.Same as Tunneled,EncasedRaw edge encased within coverstitch,elastic encased within waisttbandFaux人造的，假的Non-functional or fake 非功能性的或是假的Placket,button,fly,pocket.Also refers to imitation 人造的fabrics such as faux leather and fur.No photoFill in Add to pattern at curve so radius becomes smallerAemhole,front/back rise,neck,other curved areasFlat(garment)Garment over-pressed causing noticeable crease服装过压造成的明显折痕Shoulder area,collar stand,翻领,misc.trimsFlat(pattern shape)Shape is too straight,does not have enough curveFront/back,collar,princess seamsForwardToward the frontFullnessExtra fabric that nedds to be added or eliminatedMost often refers to shirring or sweep but may be anywhere on garmentFunctionalPerforms an intended function within the garmentPlacket,button,flyGaping,GappingGarment stands away from bodyUsually armhole or back waist but may be anywhere on garment especially along finished edgesGatheringExtra fabric stitched into a seam.Similar to Shirring,RuchingAnywhere on garmentGrain布纹Orientation of fabric threadsGrainlineLine on pattern to indicate vertical grain of fabricHigh Point Shoulder(HPS)Point where neckline interscents with natural fold of shoulder(not necessarily the seam)HikingHemline angling upward and is not parallel to floorHem,sleeve opening,leg opening,ect.Horizontal grainYarns aligned to horizontal or weft/fill direction perpendicular to selvage,Same as Weft grainHorizontal planeOrientation is side to side.Same as X-AxisInverted pleatsPleats are folded to outside of garmentRefer to sketch,also see PleatsInwardToward the inside or CF/CBKissingEdges meetZipper placket,pleatsKnife pleatsMultiple pleats are folds in same directionRefer to sketch,also see PleatsLayeringSet multiple peices of fabric on top of one another or wear multiple garments over one another on the bodyNo photoLettuce degeWavy hem finish achieved by applying high density overedge stitching to raw edge of fabricLiftThe adility to raise ones arms without entire garment moving upwardsSee photfor elements that may contribute to restrictive LiftMirroredLine,pattern/plaid or piece repeats in opposition from ceter linePattern/stripe placement,sleeve cuttingMitred(corner)Corner is angledPocket,cuff edgeMitred(seam)Seam formed by joining two pieces at an angleCF neckline,bias trimMoveRe-position in the indicated direction.Same as ShiftNapNatural direction of fabric fibersrefers to cut direction of velvet,velour,corduroyNon-functionalDoes not perform an intended function within the garment,exists only for visual impact.Placket,button,fly,pocket.No photoNotching(seam allowance)Cut out small triangles from seam allowanceCollapse,CollapsingFabric is falling into the bodyOutwardToward the outside or side seam/outseamPairedLine or pattern repeats in opposite direction from center line,Same as Mirrired when matching a patternNo photoParallelEqually distant from a specific line or seamPeaks,PeakingComes to a pointShoulder,front placket,front neck,underarm,seam intersectionsPerpendicularAt right angle to a specific line or seamPick upRemove fabric or fullness from pattern.Same as Pinch outArmhole,rise,side seam,leg openingPinch/Pinch outRemove fabric or fullness from pattern.Same as Pick upArmhole,rise,side seam,leg openingPleats,PleatingFabric folded over onto inself in order to achieve extra fullness and/or desired visual effectTypes of pleats:Knife,box,invertedPuckeringFabric or seam is not smooth.This could be due to a problem with construction or an inteneional styling detailPull lineFold line on the body created by too much or too little fabric.Lines point to problem areas.Same as Drag lineAnywhere on garmenttPurl edgeOveredge stitch with a purl formed over the raw edgeReshapeChange shape as specifiedRipplingFabric or seam is not smooth.Same as Wavy,PuckeringRopingSeam or hem is twistingRuchingExtra fabric stitched into a seam.Similar to Shirring,GatheringRuching bladeSpecial balde that puts small pleats into fabricRuffle(trim)Shirred,pleated or specially shaped fabric piece used as trimRufflerMachine that uses special blade to put small pleats into fabric to form a ruffled trimSaddleFlat portion of rise or armholeScissoringCrossing over at center front openingScoop outRemove from pattern at curve so radius is increasedarmhole,front/back rise,neckShiftRe-position in the indicated direction.Same as MoveShirringExtra fabric stitched into a seam.Similar to Gathering+B47,RuchingSkewedFabric grain distortedSlantedNot straight horizontally or vertically. Same as AngledSlashCut pattern and spread open or overlap as specified to correct fitSlash and apread collar,slash and close sweepSmockingShirring/garthering created by stitching elastic to flat fabric. Also refers to hand pleating/tucking that creates 3D effectSmooth(fabric or seams)Even surface without waviness or ripplingSmooth(pattern)Pattern contour is smoothStraight grainYarns aligned to warp direction parallel to selvage.Same as Vertical grainSwaings,SwingingVertical seams do not hang straight on body.May be too far inward/outward or forward/backwardSide seam,hem,inseam/outseamSymmetricalEven from side to side TaperGradually reduced from wide to narrowTorquingGarment or seam is twistedTrimmingCut down to appropriate length.Same as ClippingThread ends,seam allowanceTrue,TruingAdjust pattern line to achieve smooth shape across seamsSeam/dart foldbacks,seam intersectionsTubular(trim)Double layer trimTies,start/trim on sweatersTubular(fabric construction)Fabric is knit into a circular form with no seamsTucks,TuckingFabric folded over onto itself.Usually stitched down along length and shallow in depthTunneltwo or more ply of fabric through which trim is inserted.Same as CasingWaistband,leg/sleeve opening,necklineTunneledFully covered by casing or stitching. Same as Encased,EnclosedElastic or tie tnneled inside waistbandTwisting,TwistedGarment or seam is not stright on the body.Similar to TorquingVertical grainYarns aligned to warp direction parallel to selvage.Same as Straight grain,Warp grainVertical planeOrientation is up and down.Same as Y axisWarp grainYarns aligned to vertical or warp direction parallel to salvageWeft grainYarns alignedto weft or fill direction perpendicular to salvageX Axis Orientation is side to side.Same as Horizontal planeY AxisOrientaion is up and down.Same as Vertical plane