AATCC 8-2005 纺织品 耐磨擦色牢度.pdf
? Copyright © 2005 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists AATCC Technical Manual/2006TM 8-200517 Developed in 1936 by AATCC Commit- tee RA38; revised 1937, 1952, 1957, 1961, 1969, 1972, 1985, 1988, 1996, 2004, 2005; reaffirmed 1945; 1989; edi- torially revised and reaffirmed 1968, 1974, 1977, 1981, 1995, 2001; editori- ally revised 1986, 2002. Partly equiva- lent to ISO 105-X12. 1. Purpose and Scope 1.1 This test method is designed to de- termine the amount of color transferred from the surface of colored textile materi- als to other surfaces by rubbing. It is ap- plicable to textiles made from all fibers in the form of yarn or fabric whether dyed, printed or otherwise colored. It is not rec- ommended for use for carpets or for prints where the singling out of areas may be too small using this method. 1.2 Test procedures employing white test cloth squares, both dry and wet with water, are given. 1.3 As washing, drycleaning, shrink- age, ironing, finishing, etc., may affect the degree of color transfer from a mate- rial, the test may be made before, after, or before and after any such treatment. 2. Principle 2.1 A colored test specimen is rubbed with white crock test cloth under con- trolled conditions. 2.2 Color transferred to the white test cloth is assessed by a comparison with the Gray Scale for Staining or the Chro- matic Transference Scale and a grade is assigned. 3. Terminology 3.1 colorfastness, n.the resistance of a material to change in any of its color characteristics, to transfer of its color- ant(s) to adjacent materials, or both, as a result of the exposure of the material to any environment that might be encoun- tered during the processing, testing, stor- age or use of the material. 3.2 crocking, n.a transfer of color- ant from the surface of a colored yarn or fabric to another surface or to an adjacent area of the same fabric principally by rubbing. 4. Safety Precautions NOTE: These safety precautions are for information purposes only. The pre- cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- dures and are not intended to be all inclu- sive. It is the users responsibility to use safe and proper techniques in handling materials in this test method. Manufac- turers MUST be consulted for specific details such as material safety data sheets and other manufacturers recommenda- tions. All OSHA standards and rules must also be consulted and followed. 4.1 Good laboratory practices should be followed. Wear safety glasses in all laboratory areas. 5. Apparatus and Materials 5.1 AATCC Crockmeter (see 13.2, 13.3 and Fig. 1). 5.2 Test Cloth, cut in 50 mm squares (see 13.4). 5.3 AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale (see 13.5). 5.4 Gray Scale for Staining (see 13.5). 5.5 White AATCC Textile Blotting Paper (see 13.5). 5.6 Specimen Holder for Crockmeter (see 13.3). 6. Verification 6.1 Verification checks on the opera- tion of the test and the apparatus should be made routinely and the results kept in a log. The following observations and corrective actions are extremely impor- tant to avoid incorrect test results where abnormal crock images can result and in- fluence the rating process. 6.2 Use an in-house poor crocking fab- ric as a calibration specimen and conduct three dry crock tests. 6.2.1 A poor circular image with un- even dye pick-up may indicate the crock- ing finger needs resurfacing (see 13.6). 6.2.2 A double, elongated image may indicate a loose clip (see 13.6). 6.2.3 A stretched and streaked crock image may be due to mounting the crock square diagonally. 6.2.4 Scuff marks to the sides of the specimen indicate the loops to the wire clips are positioned downwards and are not high enough to prevent rubbing the specimen surface. 6.2.5 A streak in the center of the crock cloth image and in the direction of rub- bing may mean the top of the metal base is warped and not flat. This will require a brace insert to square up the tester base. 6.2.6 If specimen holders are used, place the holder over the specimen on the tester base. Move the crocking finger on the crocking arm to the most forward po- sition and observe whether it hits the in- side edge of the holder. If this occurs, move the holder slightly forward for all tests. Without correction, this problem will cause a dark area on one side of the crocking image. 6.2.7 Confirm the wet pick-up tech- niques (see 9.2). 6.2.8 Replace the abrasive paper on the tester base if it is smooth to the touch in the crocking area compared to the adja- cent area, or if slippage of the specimen is noticed (see 13.7). 6.2.9 In routine testing, observe if mul- tiple streaks are on the crocking image. Position specimen normally with the long dimension oblique to the warp and fill- ing. If the direction of rubbing falls along a twill line or surface pattern, etc., then streaks may occur. If they do occur, slightly adjust the angle for testing. 7. Test Specimens 7.1 Two specimens are used, one each for the dry and the wet tests. 7.1.1 Additional specimens may be used to increase the precision of the aver- age (see 12.1). 7.2 Cut specimens at least 50 × 130 mm (2.0 × 5.1 in.) and position for testing pref- erably with the long dimension oblique to warp and filling or wales and courses. 7.2.1 Larger or full width lab samples may be used without cutting individual specimens, when multiple tests are needed and when using for production testing. 7.3 Yarns. Knit a piece of fabric at least 50 × 130 mm, or wind yarn tightly on a AATCC Test Method 8-2005 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method Fig. 1Crockmeter. Copyright © 2005 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists 18TM 8-2005AATCC Technical Manual/2006 suitable form at least 50 × 130 mm with the yarn running in the long direction; or otherwise stretched (see 13.8). 8. Conditioning 8.1 Prior to testing, precondition and condition the test specimens and the crock squares for crock testing as di- rected in ASTM D 1776, Conditioning Textiles for Testing. Condition each spec- imen for at least 4 h in an atmosphere of 21 ± 1°C (70 ± 2°F) and 65 ± 2% RH by laying each test specimen or crock square separately on a screen or perforated shelf of conditioning rack. 9. Procedures 9.1 Dry Crocking Test. 9.1.1 Place a test specimen on the base of the Crockmeter resting flat on the abra- sive cloth with its long dimension in the direction of rubbing (see 13.6 and 13.7). 9.1.2 Place specimen holder over speci- men as an added means to prevent slippage. 9.1.3 Mount a white test cloth square, the weave parallel with the direction of rubbing, over the end of the finger which projects downward from the weighted sliding arm. Use the special spiral wire clip to hold the test square in place. Posi- tion the clip with loops upward. If the loops point downward they can drag against the test specimen. 9.1.4 Lower the covered finger onto the test specimen. Beginning with the finger positioned at the front end, crank the meter handle 10 complete turns at the rate of one turn per second to slide the covered finger back and forth 20 times. Set and run the motorized tester for 10 complete turns. Refer to individual specifications for any other required number of turns. 9.1.5 Remove the white test cloth square, condition (see 8.1) and evaluate as directed in Section 10. In the case of napped, brushed or sanded material when loose fiber might interfere with the rating, remove the extraneous fibrous material by pressing lightly on the crock circle with the sticky side of cellophane tape before evaluating. 9.2 Wet Crocking Test. 9.2.1 Establish technique (see 13.10) for preparing wet crock cloth squares by weighing a conditioned square, then thor- oughly wet out white testing square in distilled water. Prepare only one square at a time. 9.2.2 Weigh dry crock square. Using a syringe tube, graduated pipette or auto- matic pipetter, draw up water in mL to 0.65 times weight of crocking square. If crocking square weight equals 0.24 gm, the mL used would be 0.24 × 0.65 = 0.16 mL. Lay crocking square on white plastic mesh over a dish. Apply water evenly over crocking square and weigh the wet square. Calculate wet pickup according to instructions in AATCC Methods 8 and 116, Colorfastness to Crocking test meth- ods. If needed, adjust the amount of water used to wet the square and using a new crocking square, repeat steps. When 65 ± 5% wet pickup is achieved, record the amount of water used. Draw up the re- corded amount of water into the syringe tube, graduated pipette or automatic pi- petter for each wet crocking performed during the current day. Repeat this pro- cess each day. 9.2.3 Avoid evaporative reduction of the moisture content below the specified level before the actual crock test is run. 9.2.4 Continue as directed in 9.1. 9.2.5 Air dry the white test square, then condition (see 8.1) before evaluating. In the case of napped, brushed or sanded material when loose fiber might interfere with the rating, remove the extraneous fibrous material by pressing lightly on the crock circle with the sticky side of cello- phane tape before evaluating. 10. Evaluation 10.1 Rate the amount of color trans- ferred from the specimen to the white test square under examination by means of the Chromatic Transference Scale or the Gray Scale for Staining (see 13.11 and 13.14). 10.2 Back the test square with three layers of white test cloth while evaluating. 10.3 Rate dry and wet crocking fast- ness by means of the Gray Scale for Staining or the 9-step AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale. (Usage of these scales is discussed in AATCC Evaluation Procedures 2, 3 and 8, respectively.) Grade 5negligible or no color transfer. Grade 4.5color transfer equivalent to Step 4-5 on the Gray Scale for Staining or Row 4.5 on the 9-step AATCC Chro- matic Transference Scale. Grade 4color transfer equivalent to Step 4 on the Gray Scale for Staining or Row 4 on the 9-step AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale. Grade 3.5color transfer equivalent to Step 3-4 on the Gray Scale for Staining or Row 3.5 on the 9-step AATCC Chro- matic Transference Scale. Grade 3color transfer equivalent to Step 3 on the Gray Scale for Staining or Row 3 on the 9-step AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale. Grade 2.5color transfer equivalent to Step 2-3 on the Gray Scale for Staining or Row 2.5 on the 9-step AATCC Chro- matic Transference Scale. Grade 2color transfer equivalent to Step 2 on the Gray Scale for Staining or Row 2 on the 9-step AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale. Grade 1.5color transfer equivalent to Step 1-2 on the Gray Scale for Staining or Row 1.5 on the 9-step AATCC Chro- matic Transference Scale. Grade 1color transfer equivalent to Step 1 on the Gray Scale for Staining or Row 1 on the 9-step AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale. 10.4 Average individual results to the nearest 0.1 grade when multiple speci- mens are tested or when a panel of evalu- ators rate color transfer. 11. Report 11.1 State whether dry or wet crocking test. 11.2 Report the grade determined in 10.3. 11.3 Report the grade determined in 10.4 to the nearest 0.1 grade. 11.4 State whether Gray Scale for Staining or Chromatic Transference Scale was used for evaluating staining (see 13.5, 13.9). 11.5 If any pretreatment or aftertreat- ment was given to any specimens (see 1.3) indicate method of treatment. 12. Precision and Bias 12.1 Precision. An interlaboratory test was conducted in 1986 to establish the precision of the test method. Testing was conducted under the normal atmospheric conditions of each laboratory and not necessarily under ASTM standard condi- tions. Two operators at each of 12 labora- tories evaluated 5 fabrics in 3 replications by both dry and wet test method. Each of 3 raters independently rated the stained crock squares using both the Gray Scale for Staining and the Chromatic Transfer- ence Scale. The original data is on file at the AATCC Technical Center. 12.1.1 The components of variance as standard deviations of the Gray Scale for Staining or Chromatic Transference Scale rating units are given in Table I. 12.1.2 Critical differences are given in Table II. Table IComponents of Variance Test Scale DryWet ChromaticGrayChromaticGray Single Operator/Rater Within Laboratory Between Laboratory 0.20 0.20 0.10 0.20 0.19 0.17 0.24 0.31 0.38 0.25 0.34 0.54 Copyright © 2005 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists AATCC Technical Manual/2006TM 8-200519 12.1.3 Example for determining be- tween laboratory differences using one observer and the chromatic scale are given in Table III. Interpretation: For the dry crock test, since the difference between labs is less than the critical differences in 12.1.2 (0.82), the difference in results is not sig- nificant. For the wet crock test, since the difference between labs is greater than the critical difference (1.53), the differ- ence in results is significant. 12.2 Bias. The true value of colorfast- ness to crocking can only be defined in terms of a test method. Within this limita- tion, this test method has no known bias. 13. Notes 13.1 For carpets, AATCC Method 165, Col- orfastness to Crocking: CarpetsAATCC Crockmeter Method, under the jurisdiction of Committee RA57, Floor Covering Test Meth- ods, should be used. 13.2 The AATCC Crockmeter provides a reciprocating rubbing motion simulating the action of a human finger and forearm. 13.3 The AATCC Crockmeter is so de- signed that the 16 ± 0.3 mm (0.625 ± 0.01 in.) diameter finger moves back and forth, with each complete turn of the crank, in a straight line along a 104 ± 3 mm track on the speci- men, with a downward force of 9 N ± 10% (2 lb ± 10%). Two models, a manual and a motorized Crockmeter are available from SDL Atlas L.L.C., 1813A Associate Lane, Char- lotte NC 28217; tel: 704/329-0911; fax: 704/ 329-0914; e-mail: infosdlatlas.com. 13.4 Crockmeter Test Cloth is available from Testfabrics Inc., P.O. Box 26, 415 Dela- ware St., W. Pittston PA 18643; tel: 570/603- 0432; fax: 570/603-0433; e-mail: testfabric aol.com; Textile Innovators Corp., div. of SDL Atlas L.L.C., P.O. Box 8, 101 Forest St., Windsor NC 27983; tel: 252/794-9703; fax: 252/794-9704; e-mail: ticsdlatlas.com. 13.4.1 Crockmeter Test Cloth should meet the following specifications: Fiber100% 10.3-16.8 mm combed cotton staple, desized, bleached, with no optical brightener or finishing mate- rial present Yarn15 tex (40/1 cotton count), 5.9 turns/cm “z” Thread count32 ± 3 warp ends/cm: 33 ± 3 picks filling/cm Weave1/1 plain pH7 ± 0.5 Mass/sq meter113 ± 5 g greige: 100 ± 3 g finished WhitenessW = 80 ± 2 (Method 110) 13.5 The Chromatic Transference Scale, Gray Scales for Staining and White AATCC Textile Blotting Paper are available from AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709; tel: 919/549-8141; fax: 919/ 549-8933; e-mail: ordersaatcc.org. 13.6 Accidental damage to the rubbing fin- ger, spiral clip or abrasive paper should be repaired as follows: neatly renew the abrasive paper; bend the clip furt
